Harsh actives, damaged skin, and how to fix it

Not long ago, the skincare goal was clear: exfoliate, strip, and resurface your way to perfect skin. For a while, it worked – or at least, it seemed to. But for many Gen Z (and even Gen Alpha) skincare lovers, that glow came at a cost.

Now, dermatologists and beauty experts are sounding the alarm: too much too soon is damaging skin. Retinols, AHAs, BHAs, and high-dose synthetic vitamin C serums can be effective – but when misused or over-layered, they can compromise the skin barrier, leading to dryness, breakouts, redness, and long-term sensitivity.

Social media has made skincare more accessible than ever – but also more overwhelming. A scroll through TikTok shows teens and tweens layering high-strength exfoliants, using multiple serums at once, and copying routines meant for mature skin.

The result? A generation of people dealing with irritated, over-exfoliated, barrier-damaged skin – often before they’ve even hit adulthood.

Think of your skin barrier as a brick wall. The skin cells are the bricks; the lipids that hold them together (ceramides) are the mortar. This outermost layer – also known as the stratum corneum – acts as your body’s frontline defence. It keeps moisture in and irritants out.

When your skin barrier is strong, skin looks and feels healthy, bouncy, and balanced. But when it’s compromised, things quickly go downhill: sensitivity, stinging, dehydration, tightness, flaking, and even acne flare-ups.

You might be dealing with barrier disruption if your skin feels:
• Red, inflamed, or sensitive
• Tight and uncomfortable, even after moisturising
• Dry and flaky
• Extra oily (your skin may be overcompensating)
• Prone to breakouts in areas that were previously clear.

Your skin barrier is smart – it wants to heal. But it needs the right support. That’s where barrier repair skincare comes in. The new wave of skincare doesn’t aim to strip or resurface. Instead, it’s all about rebuilding. Soothing, strengthening, hydrating, and replenishing the skin barrier with ingredients your skin recognises and responds to.

Simplify
Strip your routine back to the essentials: a gentle cleanser, a hydrating mist, and a barrier-focused moisturiser.

Switch to barrier-friendly ingredients
Ceramides, plant hyaluronic acid, peptides, harakeke flax gel, and omega-rich oils are your skin’s best allies.

Avoid over-exfoliation
Limit AHAs, BHAs, and retinols, or pause them entirely until your skin calms.

Hydrate, then hydrate again
Use a rich but breathable moisturiser like Ceramide Soufflé to lock in hydration and support skin regeneration.

Be patient
Barrier repair takes time, but with consistency and the right products, your skin will bounce back.